Azhar Zainal
Azhar Zainal fitting a beaded gown on a client in the atelier

Atelier · Kuala Lumpur · Est. 2016

Made for onewearer at a time.

Womenswear, made to measure. Every garment that leaves this atelier is designed, drafted and fitted for one wearer, to her measurements and to no size chart.

Accepting 3 commissionsfor the current season
Bridal·Evening·Traditional·Made to measure·Hand finished·All sizes·Kuala Lumpur·
Checkerboard satin gown

Borneo Fashion Week · 2017

The year the atelier won its Emerging Designer Award.

Statement

Fashion for all

I began in 2016 with a conviction that was unpopular at the time: a woman should not have to shrink to be dressed beautifully. The industry drew a line at a certain size and treated everything past it as a problem to be hidden.

I refused the line. I cut evening gowns, bridal and occasion wear for bodies the runway had ignored, and in 2017 that work won the Emerging Designer Award at Borneo Fashion Week.

Ten years on, the conviction has not moved. I take a small number of commissions at a time, and every one of them is drawn and fitted under my own eye.

How it works

The process

A commission is not something that happens in an afternoon. This is the shape of it, honestly stated, so you know what you are agreeing to before you begin.

In detail →
  • 01

    Request

    You leave your email and a note. I read it myself and reply personally. If the date is not possible, or what you want is outside what I do well, I will say so plainly rather than take the booking and disappoint you later.

  • 02

    Appointment

    We meet in the atelier or by video. We talk about the occasion, the body, the cloth and the budget. You leave knowing the price. I leave knowing whether I can build it.

  • 03

    Design & pattern

    Sketches, then a pattern drafted to your measurements. Not graded from a standard block, but drafted. This is where a garment stops being a picture and becomes a structure.

  • 04

    Fittings

    First in calico, then in the real cloth. Bodies change, and a garment made ahead of a wedding has to be corrected close to the day. Fittings are not optional.

  • 05

    Finishing

    Hand-work: hems, beading, appliqué, linings, closures. The slowest part, and the part that separates a made-to-measure garment from a bought one.

Azhar Zainal

The atelier

I did not choose this work. I have simply never wanted to do anything else.

The atelier makes womenswear only: bridal, evening, and traditional Malay dress. There is no production line and nothing is made to a size chart. Every commission is drawn and fitted personally, and only a few are taken at a time. What that buys a client is not exclusivity for its own sake. It is attention.

Founded
2016
Based
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Discipline
Womenswear · Made to measure
Sizing
All sizes, drafted to measure
Read more →

Recognition

  • 2017

    Emerging Designer Award

    Borneo Fashion Week

    Winner, with a fashion design degree scholarship

  • 2017

    Miss Global Malaysia

    Cass Chen

    Evening gown for the titleholder

  • 2018

    Collection for plus-size women

    LOKA Malaysia, Nu Sentral

    Eleven pieces, covered by Budiey

  • 2018

    Breaking the wall of fashion discrimination

    XTRA

    On serving the plus-size market